Art Deco

If you have to have your city ravaged and obliterated by earthquake may I suggest having it happen in 1931. 

This is the story of a town of 60,000 on the north island of New Zealand. Napier is its name. I had never heard of it until last week, when Natalie recommended a visit here to Lori and me. To set the record straight, when planning our under the world trip a few months ago, Lori was all Gung Ho to visit NZ. Me, not so much. I am extremely grateful that my travel partner prevailed in our conversation. Everything about this place has been extraordinary. I should probably listen to her more often. Nah.

There is no place on the planet, other than perhaps South Beach, Florida, that rivals Napier for its Art Deco architecture. History lesson - February 3, 1931, 10:47 AM - a massive earthquake measuring 7.9 hit this coastal town, lasting three minutes and twenty seconds. I have experienced a couple of small quakes in my time and can recount from personal experience that ten seconds in a swaying building feels like a lifetime. Conceiving of 3 1/2 minutes of absolute terror at a 7.9 level would lead to serious underwear washing.

A tectonic plate emerged from the sea, raising the land that had previously been under the ocean by over two meters, adding 40 square kilometers of new terra firma (sort of) to the town. This was probably good for real estate investors but for the 300 dead people, the hundreds of injured, and the total decimation of a city, there was not much shared optimism at the time.

The world was in the morass of a world wide depression. Work could not be had, except in Napier that collectively got itself up, dusted itself off, and went to work rebuilding. Finding labour was not an issue. Within two years, aided by the navy, the citizenry and the generosity of banks (how the world has changed), the city was back. Four architects were commissioned to assist in the rebuild. It being the early 30's Art Deco was the dominant style. Bauhaus was fading out of style, which, in retrospect, was  likely a good thing. Utilitarian architecture is fine, particularly if you're a util. But if there is a part of you, like there is a part of me, that delights in the fanciful freedom of expressive architecture, then Art Deco is where you want to be. And it be here.

Several hundred commercial and residential properties, most of which are still standing, have created a memory lane that celebrates and extols the beauty and virtue of my favourite era. Enjoy the pics.

Part Two They make wine here. And have nice mountains.

Five and a half hours were spent visiting wineries, 

sampling some of the better Chardonnays, 

Sauvignon Blancs, Gewürtztraminers, and a host of other whites and reds in four local wineries. Tasty and fun; a good time was had by all. 

Final stop of the day was Mount Te Mata. I know what you say, but I say Te Mata.

Put New Zealand on your 'have to visit' list.